Pianos - San Diego County - United States of America
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Inside Chasms on the southside of the chasm itself. Breaks only between high and low tide. Either going up or going down. Must be a BIG! day outside. Was named Pianos because when the wave breaks the eel grass gets sucked up the face and looks like keyboard of a player piano doing it's thing.
The bottom of the wave is maybe 6 inches deep ontop of the sandstone reef below. Best ridden by goofyfoot kids on a little Jeff Chig style fish. No bottom turn. Need a 1 stroke take off over the edge of the reef where it drops off to the sandy bottom of the channel and jam across the top half face of the shoulder. No cutbacks. Quick steepwater ride then kick out and glide down the backside. Barrels happen but you don't get out. You have to dive off prone, straight down the line or land on the reef (Preferably feet first).
Paddle out in the rip of the chasm maybe 45 Yds. Turn left over reef again and you're picking off another one. Great spot on epic days outside and big crowds of talented surfers. You get in alot of stand up time.
The bottom of the wave is maybe 6 inches deep ontop of the sandstone reef below. Best ridden by goofyfoot kids on a little Jeff Chig style fish. No bottom turn. Need a 1 stroke take off over the edge of the reef where it drops off to the sandy bottom of the channel and jam across the top half face of the shoulder. No cutbacks. Quick steepwater ride then kick out and glide down the backside. Barrels happen but you don't get out. You have to dive off prone, straight down the line or land on the reef (Preferably feet first).
Paddle out in the rip of the chasm maybe 45 Yds. Turn left over reef again and you're picking off another one. Great spot on epic days outside and big crowds of talented surfers. You get in alot of stand up time.
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Comprimento da Onda: Short (< 50m)
- Direção do Swell: North, NorthWest, West, SouthWest, South, SouthEast, East, NorthEast
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Direção da Onda: Right, Left
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Direção do Vento: North, NorthWest, West, SouthWest, South, SouthEast, East, NorthEast
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Tipo do Fundo: Sand & rock